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Santiago de Cuba: ayer y hoy

Santiago de Cuba, o la Tierra Caliente, como se le conoce en la isla caribeña, es una ciudad que ha sabido ganarse sus epítetos y un lugar imprescindible en la cultura y la historia del país antillano. Desde los episodios de las guerras por la independencia, pasando por la creación de ritmos autóctonos que influyeron en la música de la región, por los mitos locales y hasta su propia geografía, se puede entender por qué, como dicen los habitantes de la ciudad, Santiago es Santiago.

Atrapada entre el mar y la Sierra Maestra, Santiago de Cuba resguarda buena parte de la herencia cultural e histórica de la isla. Considerada la segunda capital y única urbe con el título de 'ciudad héroe', ha sido escenario de acontecimientos que marcaron el destino de la nación caribeña y, en ocasiones, el del mundo.

Las calles empinadas, la peculiar arquitectura colonial, el calor intenso y la hospitalidad de su gente hacen de Santiago una ciudad sencillamente diferente. Caminarla ofrece la sensación de encontrarse en un museo al aire libre. En pleno Parque Céspedes se alza la Casa Diego Velázquez, la vivienda más antigua del país. Mandada a construir por Hernán Cortés para fundir oro, conserva elementos árabes como las ventanas moucharabie, piedras 'chinas pelonas' y paredes de piedra verdugada. Muy cerca, la catedral recuerda la resistencia santiaguera —saqueada, incendiada y golpeada por sismos—, mantiene su estructura interna de madera, capaz de oscilar para sobrevivir a los temblores.

Las montañas no son solo parte del paisaje. En el siglo XVIII acogieron haciendas cafetaleras fundadas por colonos ses que huyeron de la Revolución Haitiana. Aquella inmigración, acompañada de esclavos y de ideas ilustradas, influyó en el sentimiento independentista y en la identidad regional. Prueba viva de esa fusión es la tumba sa La Caridad de Oriente, donde tambores de ascendencia africana conviven con un baile de salón heredado de los esclavistas galos.

Santiago también fue testigo de la Batalla Naval de 1898 frente al Morro, derrota que anticipó la intervención estadounidense y la muerte de un imperio y el nacimiento de otro. Décadas después, el asalto al Cuartel Moncada, el 26 de julio de 1953, sacudió al país. Hoy, el museo combina museología tradicional y moderna, con accesibilidad total e interactividad que atrae sobre todo a jóvenes y niños.

La memoria de quienes lucharon por la independencia y la revolución se honra en el Complejo Histórico Segundo Frente Oriental y en el cementerio Santa Ifigenia. Allí reposan Mariana Grajales, Carlos Manuel de Céspedes, José Martí y Fidel Castro, alineados en el Altar de la Paz que representa la unidad nacional.

¿Qué sería de Cuba sin su Santiago? Probablemente algo inimaginable: en estas tierras germinaron los valores, los ritmos y los héroes que definen al pueblo cubano. No es casual que, al despedirse, Fidel Castro haya dicho lo que podría estar en los labios de cualquier compatriota orgulloso de su historia: "Gracias, Santiago".